4 - HOSE ROUTING

8N Tractor

Previous photos were of my 2N, the following photos show the routes I used on my 52. Other optional accessories, such as the foot throttle, may push some hoses into less than ideal locations. Watch out for areas like the steering arms. Anything that rubs a hose will quickly make a hole. Hot hydraulic fluid is no fun when it gets loose.

The First Photo is looking at the back of the new front pump. Yellow arrows are the larger Suction hose coming from the bottom of the tractor sump. White arrows are the high pressure Supply going to the Test Port on the belly pump.

This and the next photo shows most of the route for the Suction Hose (Yellow Arrows). The Suction hose ducks up under the hood near the battery momentarily, just because there was a good place for a tie wrap.

Yes, I used tie wraps as temporary hose hangers, and they are still there. If the tie wraps ever become a problem, they will be replaced with something sturdier.

This photo was taken looking through the battery door. It shows both hoses from-to the front pump. The High Pressure Supply (White Arrows) is looping around behind the dash to get to the other side of the tractor.

This is looking from the other side, you can see another tie wrap doing double duty as a hose hanger and battery door bumper.

This and the next photo shows the rest of the route I used for the High Pressure Hose (White Arrows). Pay close attention where the hose passes behind the steering arm. On some tractors, there may not be enough room. The hose might have to run a little higher, by the steering box, or drop this run down under the footboard like we did for the suction hose on the other side.

Hopefully, the first question that comes from this page isn't something like, "Where can I buy hoses with the Yellow and White arrows?" GRIN.

My check valve and a quick disconnect are the shiny fittings above the foot board. The quick disconnect allows me to un-plug this line with no mess. Ball bearings in both ends seal shut when the fitting is pulled apart. This hardware works in the vertical postion, can come straight out from the test port under the footboard. A 45 degree fitting can be used to turn parallel with the footboard.

The suction and high pressure supply connections under the tractor are not far apart. I'm still using the pipe fitting under the differential for my suction hose connection. It is possible that the new front pump could suck the differential dry, if the tractor was parked with the front wheels low, or driving down a steep hill. This is another reason I limit my front pump size to 2 GPM.

The original hydraulic system flow returns to the sump where the pump is located, so the ideal place to put the new suction line is the drain plug at the hydraulic pump. That requires a custom plug, or drilling and tapping a stock plug for the elbow fitting. There are very few places in the bottom of the sump that can be safely drilled and tapped. I prefer not to do anything that can't be put back original later. The Old Hokie sells an adapter that replaces the drain plug and provides a hose connection point. This is a very nice solution. Hokie Hydraulics.

A friend had another idea. Fred connected his suction line to the main transmission drain. This location is certainly no worse than the differential drain plug as far as flow is concerned, and the suction hose can be a few feet shorter. Fred made an adapter using an old engine oil drain plug. You could drill and tap the transmission drain plug, but the engine drains have a screen. Fred cut the screen down, and brazed it together to fit in the tranny drain hole. His system now has a screen that should keep any big pieces from getting into the external pump.

2N Tractor

Try running hoses several different ways. Standard hose lengths are much less expensive than custom hoses, but only come in even 2 foot lengths. Some hose sizes are also available as a one foot length. Use something like heavy rope, or garden hose to test different routes and easily measure the actual hose lengths needed.

Hoses can run high

A more direct route is to just drop down from the pump to the connections under the tractor.

Tie wraps can be used for temporary hangers. Please don't permanently connect your hoses to the radius rod. The up and down movement of the radius rod will do nasty things to the hoses. Make permanent hose brackets and attach hoses to things that don't move.

The next three photos from Duane S. show the hose route he used on his 1946 2N. This route is similar to the original route used for my 8N. This requires slightly longer hoses than just dropping down on the left side.

The hoses may be better protected running over the top, but I've decided the route that works best on my tractors to use the shortes route, dropping straight down from the pump and under the left footboard.

Hose Clamps

When you are happy with the hose routing, it's time to install something better than tie wraps. I found these hose brackets at surpluscenter.com

The heavy steel base plate can be welded to a bracket that will slip under a bolt.

The base plate can also be welded to any convenient anchor point such as the bottom of the bracket for the foor board.

The foot boards on my 2N are aftermarket parts. I did not feel guilty about welding something to the brackets. If the originality police ever want to "restore" this foot board, all evidence of the bracket can be removed with a grinder.

If welding isn't an option, the base plate can be removed, then drill a hole in a new fabricated bracket and attach the rest of the assembly with a nut and bolt. Any piece of 1" x 1/8" strap can be used to make a sturdy bracket using nothing more than a hacksaw and drill. Things like a vice and grinder help but aren't essential. Find a bolt you want to use as an attachment point, drill a hole near one end of the strap for that bolt to pass thru. Bend the bracket if necessary. Drill another hole to attach the hose clamp assembly. Prime and paint if you want it to look good.

These hose brackets are available as singles or doubles. For a 1/2" and 3/4" hose double mounting point, I chose the 3/4" double bracket. The 1/2" hose is captured in place, but might need a shim to properly secure the smaller hose.

Make sure you match up the published ID of each bracket with the OD of the actual hoses you are using.

There are some cheaper strap-type, 1-hole clamps available that might work where they can be slipped under a bolt. Most anything is better than plastic zip ties.

Please Note: These routing photos are suggestions, you may find a better way to install hoses on your tractor. The intent is that these external hoses not become a reliability issue. A broken hose will quickly leak or pump all the fluid out of your sump. At the very least, that's going to be messy, and expensive. Plus, if you've been working the tractor a while, the fluid will be quite hot.

Go to next chapter 5-Problems and Options.

TABLE OF CONTENTS
CHAPTER	DESCRIPTION
1	Top of This Page
2	Engine Driven Pump
3	Shopping List
4	Hose Routing
5	Problems and Options