Tune-Up and Maintenance

Most of these old tractors that are offered for sale have been neglected for several years before the owner decided (or was convinced) to sell. Even if you have purchased a "restored" tractor, it takes very little time to go through the various systems and make sure they are really ready for work. No engine can perform well without properly maintained Fuel, Air, and Ignition systems. The hydraulic system needs a clean sump with the proper type fluid. Other adjustments such as brskes, clutch and steering may also be less than ideal.

The best source of maintenance and repair information is the original Ford tractor Owner's Manual and the I&T FO-4 Shop Manual. Reprints or even originals of both are surprisingly inexpensive and very easy to get. The information I have provided on these pages should get you started, but this is intended to supplement, not replace what is in the manuals. Do not get discouraged when a single step like "remove bolt" takes half a day or more to accomplish. The best step-by-step procedures are written while actually taking the vehicle apart, but they are taking apart a NEW vehicle. I have yet to see a single step-by-step procedure or manual that includes all the real-world steps you may need to deal with layers of gook, rust, stripped threads, frozen fittings and previous hack-job repairs.

I will attempt to fill in some of the blanks in the instructions with my own real-world experiences, but please remember that most of this information is based on my Ford 8N tractors. If your tractor is a 9N or 2N there are some differences, but the most basic maintenance should at least be similar. PS: Much if this is being updated, now that I have the 46-2N in pieces. KL

WIERD NOISES: So, you hear a tapping, banging, squealing, or other noise but cannot pinpoint exactly where it is coming from. Before doing any WORK on the vehicle in question, here is a quick way to find out where the noise is coming from.

I often use a long screwdriver to locate the source of those noises. ALWAYS BE CAREFUL AROUND RUNNING MACHINERY! Hold the blade on your generator, water pump, governor, and various locations on the engine block. At each location, rest the handle against your ear. You will be able to quickly pinpoint exactly where the noise is coming from. BE CAREFUL! Don't get that screwdriver or any part of your body tangled up in the fan belt, other moving parts, or exposed electrical terminals.

You could buy a real mechanics stethoscope, but why spend money if any long screwdriver or other hard tool will accomplish the same thing for free?

MOTOR OIL: The N-series tractor Owner's Manuals say to use straight 30-weight motor oil when the temperature is above 90-degrees, 20-weight for all temperatures between 10 and 90 degrees F, and 10-weight for temperatures between minus 10 and plus 10. Modern multi-Grade, high-detergent oils did not exist when those specifications were written. The oil sump and pickup were also designed for non-detergent oil. They were designed to allow dirt and sludge to collect in the bottom of the sump. Modern Multi-Grade detergent oil has been engineered to keep dirt in suspension, so the dirt comes out easily when you drain the old oil. This greatly reduces the need to flush and clean the sump before adding new oil.

Modern multi-Grade oils are basically low-viscosity oil with additives that make it ACT like the higher rating indicated. The down-side is if you are using a 5-30 Multi-Grade oil, once the additives wear out, what you have left may only be equivalent to a 5-weight motor oil!

Since the lightest weight oil Ford recommended was 10-weight, the minimum I will use in my tractors in a 10-30 Multi-Grade. I generally use a 10-40 off-road or racing type motor oil year-round. I believe the additives in the off-road type are better for older engines with non-roller type lifters.

HYDRAULIC FLUID: Refer to the new section on Hydraulics .

SPARK PLUGS: The original spec calls for Champion H-10 plugs. But, after extensive real-world experience, most owners of these tractors are using Autolite 437 plugs. These plugs run a little hotter and stay cleaner than the original plugs. Yes, you could simply go one heat range higher and stay with Champion plugs. That should accomplish the same thing. If you are doing a full restoration you may want to use the exact original plugs. It's up to you, but I have been using the Autolight 437 plugs and have almost never had to remove and dry them off to get my tractor started even when flooded (once in 3 years).

If you use the choke at all, you will eventually flood one of these tractors. Most of them are incredibly easy to flood. It only takes a little too much choke. With some plugs, your only option at that point is to remove them and dry them off or put in a dry set. The best way I have found to dry and clean plugs is to cook them a little with a propane torch, then blow the soot out with compressed air. Don't melt them down, just cook off the deposits.

FUEL SYSTEM