RADIO FLYER WAGON REPAIRS

This really is just an old Radio Flyer wagon. I will work on just about anything. A brand new model 18 just like this one only costs about $120, so it normally would not be worth doing many repairs. This one was nearly run over many years ago. That caved in one side and bent the rear axle bolster. All four wheels are misaligned in different directions. Other than the slotted head hardware, it was easy enough to remove the axle assemblies from the body.

This is the front axle. That isn't an optical illusion the wheels really are towed-out. The axle is bent.

This is the bent rear axle bolster and support braces.

This is the side that was dented. An amateur "repair" was attempted. Several whacks with a big hammer did far more damage than the car. Also visible in this photo is a small crack around a bolt hole that attaches one side of the rear axle bolster. At this point, I'd normally say "forget it". Buying a new one makes more sense. Only problem with that, I'm doing this for family. My Sister bought this wagon when her daughter was a toddler. That daughter will soon be a Mom. My Sister wants to give her back the original wagon that was the center of so much fun for them, all those years ago. In this case, the sentimental value of the repaired original will be priceless.

These are the tools that should have been used to straighten sheet metal.

These photos were taken after 45 minutes of hammer and dolly work. Everything I just did is explained in a small book called "the Key to Metal Bumping" by Frank T. Sargent. Old school body and fender repair described in this small book has mostly become obsolete. Most auto body repairs today are replacement panels and plastic filler. The relatively thick sheet metal this wagon is made of is much easier to work with hammer and dolly than the thin stuff on cars today. The original damage was easy to repair (10 minutes). Much more time was spent trying to remove the dents made by previous hammer work. It ain't perfect, but it's a lot better than it was. In this case, some evidence of the damage is a memory that shouldn't be completely erased. If we were going for perfect, we'd just buy a new one.

Once the wheels were removed, straightening axles, the rear bolster, and support pieces was much easier than first impression indicated. It helps to have a shop press and bench vise.

Axle and steering parts are done, sanded smooth, and have been prime-painted. There was some surface rust, but nothing on this wagon was so far gone that it needed anything more than some light sanding to prep for primer. Body has been sanded, primed, and painted on the bottom. Next weekend it will be flipped over and the inside will be refinished. I'm considering shooting a couple coats of clear enamel on the body, for the extra UV protection, and shine.

All the running gear will be repainted gloss black. The wheel centers will be refinished white. A small hardware bag is available from the manufacturer for less than $10. Used in Model #18, and #24, the hardware bag includes all hub caps, bolts, nuts, cotter pin, and pivot plates.

Once it all dries. Final assembly only takes a few minutes. I haven't forgotten that crack near one attachment point for the rear bolster. Large fender washers will be added to reinforce those attachment points.

DONE. A new set of wheels saved having to clean, and paint the others. This also provides new axle bushings. A hardware pack from the manufacturer replaced all the small parts, nuts, bolts, and hub caps.

A piece of edge molding keeps the handle from rubbing the new paint.

The replacement decals ended-up being taller and shorter than the originals. These were sanded to scuff the surface then covered with several layers of UV clear coat. Most decent vinyl decals are good for 5 years or more outside. The clearcoat should add to that and also help keep the paint from fading.

One task remains. A refurbished child's wagon should probably have some sort of seat and belt these days. My first thought was to build a little seat. It was much easier, and probably more sensible, to just buy the real thing.